Do a search. There are opinions falling on both sides on whether or not it is a good idea to use on a daily driver. A Kevlar belt is compulsory with the fixed tensioner.

Those opposed argue that there is a good reason why a hydraulic tensioner is required. If you watch some of the videos of the timing belt at cold start up and when the engine is up to temperature, the video may justify their concerns.

There are also some mods done to the factory hydraulic tensioner to minimize total loss of tension and a catastrophic failure. Seems a good compromise.

But in the end, you will have to do your homework and decide for yourself.

If you want my two cents, I have never had a failure with the factory hydraulic tensioner in 22 years of use. Replace them every 60K and you should not either.

 

I'm installing a solid tensioner in my DD,, I bought mine from Ninja Performance though.. just be certain to get a no stretch Kevlar belt, I bought the Gates Performance # T195RB, they claim to be 300% stronger than stock. Just be sure, wherever you order it, that they have one in stock. Alot of places I checked with said they were out of stock when I bought mine just 2 or 3 weeks ago, and no one knew when they would have new stock so I bought mine off of Ebay for like $144.

 

a no streach belt and a solid tensioner.. and yet, expansion of the engine will force something has to give.

I guess it will force wear in the cam bearings.

I would never do this.. but it's your car and you have knowledge. Let us know how it goes and if there are any side effects.

Brian B

 

Westcott.. I had a tensioner failure. but it was not OEM.. and I caught it before any damage was done.

GO OEM on tensioner folks.. Not even Rockauto

I like Rockauto, but I have had many failed parts. They are a large supplier of parts from many parts producing companies and you can pick what you feel is the best. OEM has been strong.

 

Westcott.. I had a tensioner failure. but it was not OEM..

Thats why I only use and recommend factory\OEM parts for mission critical systems like timing, oil, gaskets, drive train nuts and bolts, coils, PTU, and water pumps.

 

I have also seen that 3SX sells high quality parts. I don't think you would have any issues with the parts they sell.. and they are selling the OEM tensioners on sale now.

 

All you had to do was scroll down the list of threads in this forum and you'd see this one...

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/my-tensioner-fix-451945/

screw "racing" tensioners.

 

I am using this fix right now on my OEM tensioner and OEM timing belt.

BUT

On my new engine I am going with a solid tensioner and a kevlar belt.

Reasoning.

My Logic
I don't trust OEM tensioners anymore. I have personally seen a couple OEM tensioners fail within a few miles of being installed. It is hit or miss even with the OEM ones. My assumption is that it is due to them sitting on a shelf rotting away. Those OEM tensioners are under high pressure. Sit them on a shelf for 10-15 years and then add load and heat to them. The seal gives and they fail.

My issue with the OEM fix is that does it still apply after years of belt stretch? Even adding in the spacer to the tensioner, at some point down the road the belt will stretch far enough that even the washer would not apply enough to case the belt to not slip. Granted the only way to test this would be compare a brand new OEM belt to one that had 60K+ miles on it and see what the stretch was.

I am switching to the solid/kevlar as I don't have to worry about the solid tensioner failing. The kevlar belt will not stretch and is XXX% stronger than the stock belts.

As for the comment

"expansion of the engine will force something has to give"

Well my cam shafts don't have bearings so pretty sure they will not be what wears out. if anything the extra force will be applied to the T-belt idler or tensioner pulley bearings instead of belt stretch.

Guess I have more faith in steel roller bearings then a hydraulic tensioner.

 

Thank you all for the advice I will be going with an oem tensioner.