short term yes, long term I wouldn't

 

it is not like it would be economical to fix even if you pull the motor. As cheap as our cores are (people try to buy my 2-bolt spare all the time for $50) it wouldn't make sense to take it out and weld it up. Who knows how deep the crack goes.

Are you sure it is a crack anyway? It is very unusual. Can you take some pics? I'd clean the area really well and see what it looks like then.

 

i might just be me being lazy and ancy to drive the car...car has been down since march last year and i just finished doing tt conversion and wanted to drive it and now this stops me....i believe when i was putting that part on (not sure the name, where rear oil line connects) tightened to much and caused crack...i'll see if i can take pic...this is like one of the worst teases...got so far and might have to take it out again....thanks

 

Any chance you could braze it while the engine`s still in the car?, welding cast is a knightmare but you may be able to sink a but of brass in there?.

 

i was referred something like this...i think if i can get it on a lift it could very well be done...i'm going to try some places on monday to see if it can be done...thanks

 

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I am not necessarily recommending it, but can share my experience. . . I have a '46 CJ2A Jeep with '65 Buick V6 engine. . When I bought it, there was a severe coolant leak from the block. . There was a big crack between two of the freeze plugs. . . I was in a hurry to get it ready for a Jeep Jamboree so ground a "V" where the crack was, and filled it with JB-weld. To my amazement it held thru the Jamboree, , but even more amazing is that 12 years later, it STILL holds!! .

.

 

thanks for input i guess i'll see monday what happenes but i'll need to use JB weld to get it to whatever location

 

Another good option for welding cast iron is to use nickel rod. It tends to get the best penetration from what I've seen so far.

 

Depending where he crack is do you really need to have a good weld?

Might just need a weld that seals the crack (if a shallow weld wouldnt work then JB certainly wouldnt..of course I cant weld without leaks )

 

Unfortunately the adaptor you are refering to is threaded to the main oil gallery for the rear cylinder bank . Traditional welding is not possible as is due to the fact that you will never be able to keep the area uncontaminated ie oil . I agree with the JB weld repair for now . I would suggest a through clean and a v groove with a die grinder prior to the JB weld . Do not remove the adapter try to do the repair as is . You do not want to enlarge the affected area by putting more stress if you re-install the adapter after the JB fix . Good Luck . Steve

 

thanks for the info....sorry for the newb question but what do you mean v groove

 

Rican ,simply use a tapered or a triangular shaped tool in a die grinder and follow the crack as far as you can cutting a shallow V shaped groove to expose some good clean cast iron so the JB will have something to bond to . As with any epoxy based adhesives cleanliness is very important to achieve strength within the bond . Since this area is pressurized I would follow the recomended drying time to maximize the strength .Steve

 

thanks for the break down...funny my dad was already doing this on car when i told him about it...well he said that it came clean best with gasoline and put on a coat on the jb weld after doing the v groove and today would have been the 15 hour waiting period we were going to try to put another coat on top of that one...thanks